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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.